Circuit Troubleshooting

Short notes about Circuit troubleshooting.
- Check the circuit for mechanical failures, like disconnected wire, broken vias on the board, and connections between two adjacent vias which are not to be connected.
- You should compare values of components and their connections with values and connections between components on the schematic.
- Measuring DC voltages at certain points of the board, and comparing these values to the ones on the schematic. So, by knowing the operation of the circuit you start the process of elimination to find the “suspect” component.
- If there are several “suspects”, and this is not a rare occurrence in complex devices, the testing is divided into groups of components, you start checking in reverse soldering order, this means that you start with components last soldered, because those are the most sensitive components on the circuit like integrated circuits, transistors, diodes, etc.
- Check electrolytic capacitors, since they have a somewhat limited lifespan and leave resistors and block capacitors as last in line since they are sturdy little thingies and can take a lot of beating.
- Grid transformers are tested by measuring the resistance of the copper wire on the primary and secondary coil. Since the primary coil has more curls than the secondary one, and is wound using a thinner wire, it’s resistance is higher, and it’s value lays in range between several tens of ohms (in high power transformers) to several hundreds of ohms, even to kilo ohms (in low power transformers). Coils can be tested in the same way as transformers – through their resistance. Infinite resistance still means disconnected coil.
- DC capacitors should produce an infinite value on the instrument. Exceptions are electrolytic and very high value block capacitors. When the positive end of an electrolytic capacitor is connected to a positive probe of an analog instrument, and a negative end to a negative probe, needle jumps to the lowest value and then gradually comes back towards infinity. This is a proof that the capacitor is ok, and the needle’s movement is the charge stored in the component being discharged. (Even small capacitance components get charged while testing, but their discharge time is very short, so the needle doesn’t have the time to move.)

Lie Detector Circuit #2

This lie detector circuit can be built in a few minutes, but can be incredibly useful when you want to know if someone is really telling you the truth. It is not as sophisticated as the ones the professionals use, but it works. It works by measuring skin resistance, which goes down when you lie.


Parts List:
R1 – 33K 1/4W Resistor
R2 – 5K Pot
R3 – 1.5K 1/4W Resistor
C1 – 1uF 16V Electrolytic Capacitor
Q1 – 2N3565 NPN Transistor
M1 – 0-1 mA Analog Meter
MISC – Case, Wire, Electrodes (See Notes)
Notes:
  1. The electrodes can be alligator clips (although they can be painful), electrode pads (like the type they use in the hospital), or just wires and tape.
  2. To use the circuit, attach the electrodes to the back of the subjects hand, about 1 inch apart. Then, adjust the meter for a reading of 0. Ask the questions. You know the subject is lying when the meter changes.

LED or Lamp Pulsar Circuit

This circuit operates a LED in pulsing mode, i.e. the LED goes from off state, lights up gradually, then dims gradually, etc. This operation mode is obtained by a triangular wave generator formed by two op-amps contained in a very cheap 8 pin DIL case IC. Q1 ensures current buffering, in order to obtain a better load drive. R4 & C1 are the timing components: using the values shown in the parts list, the total period is about 4 seconds.


Parts:
R1 = 4.7K
R2 = 4.7K
R3 = 22K
R4 = 2.2M
R5 = 10K
R6 = 47R
C1 = 1µF-63V
Q1 = BC337
D1 = Red Led
IC1 = LM358

Notes:
  • The most satisfying results are obtained adopting for R4 a value ranging from 220K to 4M7.
  • Adopting for R4 a value below 220K, the pulsing effect will be indistinguishable from a normal blinking effect.
  • The LED can be any type and color.
  • You can use a filament lamp bulb instead of the LED, provided it is rated in the range 3.2 to 6V, 200mA max.
  • Using a bulb as a load, R6 must be omitted.
  • Voltage supply range can be 4 to 6V: 4.5V is the best compromise.
  • Do not supply the circuit with voltages exceeding 6V: it will work less good and Q1 could be damaged when a bulb will be used as the load.
  • At 6V supply, increase R6 value to 100 Ohm.

Fuse Monitor Indicator


Description:
The idea for this project may have come to me in a flash of inspiration, and its a very simple way to check if a fuse has blown without removing it from its holder.
Notes
The simplicity of this circuit uses just two components, but with just one resistor and an LED this circuit gives visual indication of when a fuse has blown. LED1 is normally off, being “short circuited ” by the fuse, F1. Should the inevitable “big-bang” happen in your workshop then LED1 will illuminate and led you know all about it! Please note that the LED will only illumininatet under fault conditions, i.e. with a short circuit or shunt on the load. In this case the current is reduced to a safe level by R1.

Sync-Tip Clamp/Restorer with AGC and De-Emphasis

This video circuit is Sync-tip Clamp/Restorer with AGC and De-emphasis. The active component used IC MAX7450.
Below video clamp/restorer with layout and PCB

Broken Charger Connection Alarm Circuit

Detects if a device is not properly connected to its supply
Suitable for battery chargers, portable appliance supplies etc.

The above circuit can be useful to detect if the load of any battery charger or plug-in adapter supply is not properly connected. The load can be a set of batteries to be charged or any other type of battery or low dc voltage operated device. The circuit can safely operate over a 3 to 15V range and 1A max. Current, provided the supply voltage is about one volt higher than the voltage required by the load.
The circuit is inserted between the supply and the load; therefore, until a trickle-charging current of at least 100µA is flowing towards the load, D1 and D2 will conduct. The forward voltage drop (about 1V) available across the Diodes drives Q2 into conduction and, consequently, Q1 will be cut-off. If no appreciable load is connected across the circuit’s output, Q2 will become cut-off, Q1 will conduct and the Piezo-sounder will beep.


 Parts:
R1 = 10K
R2 = 1K
R3 = 1K
Q1 = BC557
Q2 = BC557
D1 = 1N4007
D2 = 1N4007
D3 = Red LED
BZ1 = Piezo Sounder



Notes:
  • An optional LED and its series limiting resistor can be wired in parallel to BZ1, as shown in dotted lines in the circuit diagram.
  • In this case you may omit the Piezo-sounder in order to obtain a visual alert only.

Analog Milliamp Meter Used as Voltmeter

A milliamp meter can be used as a volt meter by adding a series resistance. The resistance needed is the full scale voltage reading divided by the full scale current of the meter movement. So, if you have a 1 milliamp meter and you want to read 0-10 volts you will need a total resistance of 10/.001 = 10K ohms.
The meter movement itself will have a small resistance which will be part of the total 10K resistance, but it is usually low enough to ignore. The meter in the example below has a resistance of 86 ohms so the true resistor value needed would be 10K-86 or 9914 ohms. But using a 10K standard value will be within 1% so we can ignore the 86 ohms. For a full scale reading of 1 volt, the meter resistnace would be more significant since it would be about 8% of the total 1K needed, so you would probably want to use a 914 ohm resistor, or 910 standard value.
The milliamp meter can also be used to measure higher currents by adding a parallel resistance. The meter resistance now becomes very significant since to increase the range by a factor of ten, we need to bypass 9/10 of the total current with the parallel resistor. So, to convert the 1 milliamp meter to a 10 milliamp meter, we will need a parallel resistor of 86/9 = 9.56 ohms.

 
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